Timing-Belt-Change-Land-Rover.pdf

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Timing Belt Change 200 TDI Land Rover

Supplied by: Jason Crawford

If there was ever a job that was made out to be more than it should be, then this is it. Changing a

timing belt on a Defender is pretty much straight forward. Mine had 164,000 on it when I changed

it, I know it was done prior to that when it had 114,000 on it. When I removed the old belt it was in

remarkably good condition. You'll notice some yellow dots of paint on the pictures, they weren't

done by me, but I'll explain them at the end of this page. Here's how I changed the belt:

My Defender looks like this all the time anyway as I have no fan or fan cowl in there at all, but if

you still run a fan remove it all so you can get to the pulleys.

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Loosen the alternator & power steering belts, put a 30mm socket on the long extension bar and

the crankshaft damper (bottom pulley), make sure its touching the chassis, then click the ignition

to turn the engine over Note: DON'T START IT THOUGH!. This will loosen you damper bolt.

Once that's done, remove the water pump, and move the two hoses too it out of the way.

Then loosen the timing case cover , I do this leaving all the bolts in place as there are three

different lengths so its easy to get confused putting them all back together.

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Its got a gasket on it, so it may take some pressing off. Note that my crank damper is removed.

You may need to use a puller to remove this, but mine was loose after I undid the bolt. It has a

woodruff key that signifies the crank is at TDC.

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Here it is all removed, timing gear on show.

Now you must do set the timing. I had difficulty setting the injector pump timing as

some cowboy had been there before me and I couldn't get the pin in (above picture), so I

cut the belt off and started to line it all up properly.

This is what we need to do. (picture above) Bottom right is the crankshaft, that woodruff key (little

square notch on top of crank) sits at 12 o'clock in line with the arrow above it. Lock this in place

by putting a locking pin in the flywheel housing drain plug (next picture below).

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The top one is the camshaft, you can just see a small dot on the face of the pulley, that lines up

with the arrow opposite it. The one to the left is the injection pump. I loosen the three bolts on the

front that hold the plate on, then put the locating pin to lock the pump in place, I tighten the bolts

back up when the belt is on in the right place the pin fits in at the 11 o'clock position. If its at 5

o'clock your 180degrees out so turn the motor around (with belt on, rotate crank pulley so it all

moves around in time). The wheel in the bottom middle is the tensioner.

If I look under the drivers door of my 110 towards the gear box then this is what I see, the shiny

bit is the locking pin I have just put in place. If you actually look through the hole before you put it

in you will easily see the groove it fits in.

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