Rock Climbing Wilderness.pdf

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Rock
Climbing
Outdoor Adventures
Wilderness Education Association
Editors
Timothy W. Kidd, PhD
John Brown University
Jennifer Hazelrigs, MEd
University of Arkansas
HUMAN KINETICS
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Rock climbing / Wilderness Education Association ; Timothy W. Kidd,
Jennifer Hazelrigs, editors.
p. cm. -- (Outdoor adventures)
Includes bibliographical references.
ISBN-13: 978-0-7360-6802-4 (soft cover)
ISBN-10: 0-7360-6802-3 (soft cover)
1. Rock climbing. I. Kidd, Timothy W. II. Hazelrigs, Jennifer. III.
Wilderness Education Asssociation (U.S.)
GV200.2.R66 2009
796.522'3--dc22
2009018665
ISBN-10: 0-7360-6802-3 (print)
ISBN-13: 978-0-7360-6802-4 (print)
ISBN-10: 0-7360-8642-0 (Adobe PDF)
ISBN-13: 978-0-7360-8642-4 (Adobe PDF)
Copyright © 2009 by Human Kinetics, Inc.
All rights reserved. Except for use in a review, the reproduction or utilization of this work in any form or
by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including xerography,
photocopying, and recording, and in any information storage and retrieval system, is forbidden without the
written permission of the publisher.
This publication is written and published to provide accurate and authoritative information relevant to the
subject matter presented. It is published and sold with the understanding that the author and publisher are not
engaged in rendering legal, medical, or other professional services by reason of their authorship or publica-
tion of this work. If medical or other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent professional
person should be sought.
The Web addresses cited in this text were current as of February 1, 2009 unless otherwise noted.
Acquisitions Editor:
Gayle Kassing, PhD;
Developmental Editor:
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Photographer (cover):
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Photographer
(interior):
Shullphoto, unless otherwise noted. See photo credits on pages 309-310.
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The paper in this book is certified under a sustainable forestry program.
Contents in Brief
Preface
vii
PArt I
ChAPter 1
ChAPter 2
ChAPter 3
ChAPter 4
ChAPter 5
Preparing for a Rock Climbing
Adventure
Going Rock Climbing
Climbing Into Fitness
Indoor Climbing
Know Before You Go
Gearing Up for Rock Climbing
3
23
45
65
97
PArt II
ChAPter 6
ChAPter 7
ChAPter 8
ChAPter 9
On the Rock
Knots for Climbing
Managing Friction:
The Skill of Belaying
Building Climbing Anchor Systems
Strength and Grace: Techniques
for Movement on Rock
125
159
177
205
229
257
288
296
309
311
315
316
ChAPter 10
Descending
ChAPter 11
Lead Rock Climbing
Web Resources
Success Checks
Photo Credits
References
About the Editors
About the Contributors
iii
Contents
Preface
vii
PArt I
ChAPter 1
Preparing for a Rock Climbing
Adventure
Going Rock Climbing
timothy W. Kidd, PhD and Jennifer hazelrigs, Med
History of Rock Climbing 4 • Styles of Rock Climbing 5 •
Finding Places to Climb 11 • Benefits of Rock Climbing 14
• Outdoor Ethics 16 • Information on Basic Access 20 •
Getting Started in Rock Climbing 20 • Summary 22
3
ChAPter 2
Climbing Into Fitness
Scott Drum, PhD
What Constitutes Fitness? 24 • Proper Nutrition and Hydra-
tion for Climbing 33 • Physiological Responses to Climbing
35 • Musculoskeletal Injuries and Rock Climbing 36 • Mus-
cular Fitness and Cardiorespiratory Endurance Training for
Rock Climbers 37 • Summary 44
23
ChAPter 3
Indoor Climbing
Geoff harrison, MS
Inception of Indoor Climbing 46 • Indoor Climbing Facilities
46 • Types of Climbing Walls 48 • Climbing Wall Features
49 • Anchors for Indoor Climbing 54 • Programming 59 •
Summary 63
45
ChAPter 4
Know Before You Go
Nathan helweg, PhD and Kelli K. McMahan, MS
Free-Climbing Rating Systems 68 • Bouldering Rating
System 69 • Selecting a Location 71 • Planning and Pre-
trip Logistics 75 • What to Bring 84 • Personal Climbing
Safety 88 • Climbing Etiquette 92 • Summary 93
65
ChAPter 5
Gearing Up for Rock Climbing
tom holman, PhD and Craig elder, PhD
Climbing Ropes 98 • Webbing and Accessory Cord 102 •
Hardware 104 • Personal Gear and Clothing 112 • Sum-
mary 121
97
iv
Part II
CHaPtEr 6
On the Rock
Knots for Climbing
125
David Sperry, MS
Basic Terms and Concepts in Knot Tying 126 • Attach-
ing the Rope to Your Harness 128 • Knots for Attaching
Yourself to an Anchor and Knots for Building Anchors 138 •
Knots for Creating Loops or Tying Two Ropes Together 145 •
Safety and Rescue Knots 149 • Summary 157
CHaPtEr 7
Managing Friction:
The Skill of Belaying
Mat Erpelding, Ma and r. Jared Skaggs
Belay Equipment 160 • Maximizing Friction: The Techni-
cal Skill of Belaying 162 • Origins of Modern Belaying: Hip
Belay 163 • Slingshot Belay 163 • Lead Belaying 168 •
Top Belaying 169 • Additional Belaying Alternatives 170 •
Communication Techniques: Minimizing Friction Between
Partners 173 • Summary 175
159
CHaPtEr 8
Building Climbing Anchor Systems
177
Christian Bisson, EdD
What Are Climbing Anchor Systems? 178 • Purpose of an
Anchor System 179 • Principles of Safe Climbing Anchor
Systems 180 • The Art of Building Anchor Systems 182 •
Sequencing Your Actions When Building an Anchor System
183 • The Science Behind Anchor Systems 185 • Scoring
Scheme for Designing and Assessing Anchor Systems 187 •
Shock Loading Anchor Points 193 • Multipitch Climb Anchor
System 194 • Building an Anchor System With Opposing
Anchor Points 194 • Examples of Classic Anchor Systems
196 • Summary 204
CHaPtEr 9
Strength and Grace:
Techniques for Movement on Rock
205
International Wilderness Leadership School (IWLS)
General Tips and Techniques 206 • Rock Features 210 •
Face Climbing 211 • Crack Climbing 218 • Overhang
Climbing 224 • At Rest 225 • Climbing Safely 227 •
Summary 228
v

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